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Avid Elixir R Adjustment



Sep 25, 2015 /Disc Brake Service and Repair

Avid Elixir brake pad replacement issue Originally Posted by authalic Also, if you have made any adjustments at your levers, undo those before you try to push the pistons back in. Avid Elixir CR Disc Brake System user reviews: 3.6 out of 5 - 97 reviews. Read it's strength, weaknesses, find deals and pricing - mtbr.com. Avid Elixir Disc Brake Bleed Procedure If you have questions about the installation or service of these or any SRAM components, please consult your local qua. Step by Step Avid Elixir Bleed Instructions: Tools needed: Avid bleed kit (syringes, drip free fittings, DOT fluid, torx tool, bleed block), T25 and T10 torx (included in Avid bleed kit), 2.5 mm.

This article will discuss the service and adjustment of the Avid® mechanical brake systems. For information on the disc rotor mounting, see Disc Brake Rotor Removal & Installation.

1

Getting Started

Avid Elixir R Adjustment

Disc brake systems use a caliper mounted near the dropouts of the frame or fork ends, and a rotor (disc) mounted to the hub. The brake pads are housed in the caliper and are forced into the rotor. Disc caliper brakes slow the bike by converting the speed and energy of the bicycle into heat. Disc brakes can be effective in wet weather where mud, dirt and water are a concern in braking. The system can generate significant heat from slowing the wheel and bike. Allow rotor and caliper to cool before touching or servicing.

Mechanical disc brake systems use calipers that are cable actuated, similar to rim caliper brakes, with an inner brake wire and housing pulled by a brake lever.

Mechanical disc calipers use two brake pads, one on each side of the rotor. Depending upon the design of the caliper, both pads may move to contact the rotor. However, alternative designs have one pad being fixed, with only one pad moving to contact the rotor. With this design, the rotor will flex to push against the fixed pad when the brake is used.

Flat handlebar brake levers used with mechanical disc calipers are compatible with the linear pull caliper rim brakes. The lever should be set for a comfortable reach and secured to the bar. The brake housing and brake wire are the same as with rim caliper brakes. Prepare housing and wires as with rim caliper brakes.

2

Caliper Adjustment

The Avid® caliper design is to have the inner pad-to-rotor gap about twice as large as the outer pad-to-rotor gap. It can be difficult to measure and achieve this ratio, but the brake will still perform even if the ratio does not achieve this exact proportion.

The outer pad moves toward the rotor when the caliper-actuating arm is pulled by the brake wire. The inner pad can be adjusted toward or away from the rotor with a pad-adjusting knob, but it is fixed during braking. The moving pad flexes the rotor toward the fixed pad when the brake is operated. The moving outer pad also uses an adjusting knob to position the pad relative to the rotor. The dial uses an indent system, with 16 per revolution. One complete revolution moves the pad approximately 1mm.

3

Caliper Alignment

The Avid® mechanical disc brake for MTB bikes uses a brake lever designed for linear pull brakes. Pad adjusting knob moves pad position relative to rotor. Avid® disc caliper brakes use a ball-and-socket system for the caliper mounting bolts. This fixing system is similar to many brake pads on linear pull caliper rim brakes. This system allows easy alignment of the brake caliper to the rotor.

The procedure for Avid® mechanical caliper pad alignment is as follows (note: for calilpers with a pad adjustment screw for inner and outer pads):

  1. If the caliper is attached to an adapter bracket, check that the bracket is fully secured to the frame or fork.
  2. Loosen caliper-mounting bolts so the caliper is loose on bracket or post mounts.
  3. Slacken cable with adjusting barrel or loosen brake wire pinch bolt if it is secured.
  4. Check that both pad adjusting knob dials are turned fully counter-clockwise to move pads fully away from rotor.
  5. Turn the outer pad-adjusting knob approximately 1/2 turn clockwise.
  6. Turn the inner pad-adjusting knob clockwise until inner pad fully secures and locks rotor. This helps aligns caliper body and pads to rotor face. NOTE: Fine tuning of pad alignment is still necessary.
  7. Snug each caliper-mounting bolt. Alternate turns to tighten one bolt and then the other until both are fully secure.
  8. Draw slack from the brake wire and secure pinch bolt. Do not allow caliper arm to move upward when drawing slack from brake.
  1. Set pad clearance. Loosen outer pad adjusting knob approximately 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. Loosen inner padadjusting knob approximately 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Inner pad (fixed pad) to rotor gap should appear larger than the outer pad to rotor gap.
  2. Squeeze lever to test caliper brake. Adjust lever modulation setting by moving pads inward or outward from rotor by using both pad-adjusting knobs. To maintain the 2:1 ratio, turn the fixed pad-adjusting knob twice as many clicks as the moving pad-adjusting knob. For example, if a looser modulation is desired, turn the inner pad-adjusting knob counter-clockwise 4 clicks and the outer pad adjusting knob counterclockwise only 2 clicks.

The caliper-actuating arm is designed to operate from a fully open position. Set cable tension at the adjusting barrel so actuating arm is fully opened or returned. Do not use the brake lever adjusting barrel or cable pinch bolt to account for pad wear. Caliper arm may bottom out on caliper body and prevent the pads from pressing on rotor.

4

Pad Removal and Replacement

Avid Elixir R Adjustment

As pads wear, use pad-adjusting knobs to move pads closer to rotor. As you ride, both pads will wear thinner at the same rate. Turn the both the fixed pad adjusting knob and the moving pad adjusting knob the same number of clicks to maintain the 2:1 ratio of pad to rotor spacing. Brake pads should be removed and replaced if the pad thickness, including the metal holder, is less than 3mm.

Avid® mechanical brake pads should be removed and replaced if the pad thickness, including the metal holder, is less than 3mm.

The procedure for Avid® mechanical caliper pad removal and replacement is as follows: Terraria download free windows 10.

  1. Mount bike in repair stand and remove the wheel.
  2. Loosen each pad adjustment knob an equal amount.
  1. Grab lever at end of pad and push toward center of caliper body, pulling pad outward and away from caliper. Repeat process for second pad.
  2. Push lever to center of caliper body and lift to remove. Note orientation of pad return spring and remove spring from pads.
  3. Place new pads over pad return spring. Spring should be sandwiched between new pads. Installation lever is set asymmetrically on pad.
  1. Align bridge of spring with caliper boss locators. Gently squeeze return spring and pads. Engage pads into caliper body. Pad installation lever orients away from brace bolts. Push return-spring and pads into place. Pad locator will engage bosses in caliper boss.
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  1. Push pads into caliper body.
  2. Install wheel.

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In this article
1Getting Started2Caliper Adjustment3Caliper Alignment4Pad Removal and Replacement

Avid Elixir R Adjustment Parts

Posted: Dec 1, 2008 at 19:33 Quote
i got new elixirs a couple months ago. the spacing between rotor and pads has always been extremely tight. occasionally when diving into a trun the rotor contacts the pad and i get a noise that sounds like a sword coming out of a sheath in a movie..that shhiiingg type sound. thats the front brake. and the rear just doesnt have enough clearance and constantly rubs. i have had them bled by a mechanic, and adjusted enlessly. and yes have used the thing-a-magig that slides in the caliper and squueze the lever to get them back in place. i have no clue what to do from here.
any ideas?
Posted: Dec 1, 2008 at 19:34 Quote
and these are the R. not the CR, so no pad contact adjust..i wish now i had went for the CR
Posted: Dec 1, 2008 at 19:42 Quote
Yea I got the CR and theyre totally silent. Have you tried the business card trick??
Posted: Dec 1, 2008 at 20:31 Quote
I want to say that the Elixirs are of a similar construction to the Juicy's, but with newer things. If thats so, have you tried reseting the pistons? I've found that to work well with very tight pads. Sometimes, you don't need to, but i've found it to help.
1. Remove caliper from fork/frame
2. Remove the pads
3. Push pistons back into caliper
4. Replace pads
5. Install caliper
6. Business card trick
7. Ride it
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 5:06 Quote
the pistons are seated as far back as they can be. and no i didnt actually use a business card..i took the caliper off and used a pad spacer..which is pretty much the same thing..honestly i dont have a business card handy but even if i did..i really dont think one would fit. when i say i have zero clearance..thats no joke
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 7:52 Quote
How long have you had these brakes? It might be an issue with the fresh pads. Also, are you running the G3 clean sweep rotors? That might have something to do with it.
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 8:15 Quote
sevenlucky wrote:
and these are the R. not the CR, so no pad contact adjust..i wish now i had went for the CR

the pad contact adjuster does not move the pads, so the cr system wouldn't help u in this case..your system may be overfilled slightly, thus pushing the pistons out more than they should be..remove the bleed screw and push the pistons in, this will release any excess fluid and push the pistons in further
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 11:07 Quote
akern2 wrote:
How long have you had these brakes? It might be an issue with the fresh pads. Also, are you running the G3 clean sweep rotors? That might have something to do with it.

im running whatever rotors came with the set. got it ablout 2 months ago. but havent had alot of riding time on them. 2 DH days, and some neighborhood rides..
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 11:14 Quote
pipes10 wrote:
sevenlucky wrote:
and these are the R. not the CR, so no pad contact adjust..i wish now i had went for the CR

the pad contact adjuster does not move the pads, so the cr system wouldn't help u in this case..your system may be overfilled slightly, thus pushing the pistons out more than they should be..remove the bleed screw and push the pistons in, this will release any excess fluid and push the pistons in further

ok this might make sense..looking at them, it appears the pads may have a mm or so to go back in the caliper..but a pad spacer and squeezing the lever wont completely get it back in there. but that mm is probably all i need.
i have never bled brakes, brakes and spokes are really all i cant do. but i want to learn. so if i open the bleed screw and push the pads back in..i assume if there is too much fluid, i will have some squirt or dribble out? and could i potentialy mess up and have to get them completely bled?
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 11:15 Quote
and one more question..what does the pad contact adjust do on the cr's?
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 12:02 Quote
the pad contact adjustment controls at which point in the lever travel the pads will make contact with the rotor..so, if u set it all the way out, the pads will engage the rotor sooner in the lever travel..if u set it all the way in, the pads will engage the rotor later in the lever travel..
u will get a little dribble of fluid leaking out..it would be wise to have a cloth ready to catch it..also, clean up the caliper with some isopropyl alcohol after all is done to make sure u don't have any dot fluid lurking around..here's a video on bleeding juicy brakes..it is virtually the same for the elixir series
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 16:34 Quote
sevenlucky wrote:
and one more question..what does the pad contact adjust do on the cr's?

Pad contact really just messes with the way the lever feels. It is a sort of point of engagement lever that can make the lever engage 2 cm from the bars, or 3 cm.
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 16:36 Quote
damn bro..best brake video i ever seen. dude looks like a f*ckin clown haha but very precise. i tried once before with some old hayes, and the hayes bleed kit (which is horrible), and some crappy video. but with this vid, and an avid bleed kit it seems a thousand times easier.
when i got these elixirs the cables were too long so i had them cropped by the bike shop, and obviously bled afterward. but yea im gona order a kit and do it myself. only other thing..when i dive into a corner or even if im riding on a street, and quick turn the bars, the front rotor makes a quick contact with the pads..making that shhiinnngg sound i mentioned..im thinking its maybe the fork flexing? or possibly the hub? something is definitely twisting or moving under the force of turning and allowing that contact, i just cant pinpoint it.
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 16:58 Quote
It's probably a flex. It happens on my fox float 36rc2. Just something that happens.
Posted: Dec 2, 2008 at 17:04 Quote
it shouldn't be happening with 20mm axles with 36mm stanchions..it can happen but i would suspect a hub before fork flex on those